By Juliet Herd
When you eat at Michelin-starred Indian chef Rohit Ghai’s new restaurant Vatavaran in Knightsbridge, you can expect an “immersive” fine dining experience like no other.
It’s no coincidence that the name means “atmosphere” in Sanskrit – each of the restaurant’s four levels represents a distinct aspect of the Himalayan landscape, taking you on a journey that culminates at the “summit”.
This multi-sensory experience blending the natural world with the culinary, starts as soon as you enter the ground floor bar, with its calming palette of blue tones, floral wallpaper and artwork symbolising valley streams. The bright and airy mezzanine space is filled with natural light and the buzz of chefs at work in the open kitchen.
As you ascend to the elegant first floor dining room, you find yourself surrounded by green and earthy tones, reminiscent of the forests found higher up the mountains. At the “peak” is an intimate lounge and cocktail bar, with deep red hues, velvet textures and a reflective ceiling mimicking the snow-capped Himalayas.
or Rohit, who made his name with Kutir in Chelsea and the iconic Manthan in Mayfair, Vatavaran’s connection with the Himalayas is deeply personal. He and his long-term business partner Abhi Sangwan worked closely with Collective Design in Newcastle to bring their interiors vision to life.
“The Himalayas have always been a source of inspiration,” says the chef who won a Michelin star in 2017 when he was executive chef at Mayfair’s Jamavar. “I have visited many times, and the tranquillity, the breathtaking landscapes and the culture all left a deep impression on me. We wanted to bring that serenity to Vatavaran.”
It comes as no surprise that the seasonal menu is also inspired by the mountains. Renowned for his modern take on traditional Indian flavours, Rohit has curated a culinary journey that captures the essence of the Himalayas through innovative techniques and seasonal ingredients.
Identifying some of the rare and indigenous ingredients sourced from the region is like going on a treasure hunt. Himalayan juniper berries are used in marinades and cocktails for their earthy, citrusy aroma, fiddlehead ferns provide a slightly nutty flavour to dishes while the intensely aromatic mountain garlic adds depth. Then there’s buckwheat, a staple grain of the area, which is used in rotis and desserts, and Timur pepper, a rare Nepali pepper with a citrusy heat, perfect for enhancing savoury dishes.
Cocktails, designed by Abhi, also come with an Indian twist with authentic flavours such as gulab jamun (paired with spiced rum), jalebi infused with saffron and arak, and besan ladoo together with cardamom whisky, in the mix. We enjoyed the theatre of seeing the Nilima cocktail we ordered changing colour to purple with ingredients including vodka, mint, ginger and a butterfly pea flower-infused ice cube, which acts as a slow-release natural dye.
Dining from the chef’s selection menu, we were encouraged to push the boat out (portions are small) and try most of the delectable dishes on offer, starting with prettily presented aloo tikki – crispy potato, tamarind and pomegranate – and goat shami kebab – a tasty combination of bakarkhani flat bread, roasted plum and black cardamom.
One of the highlights was the salmon tikka starter with kokum beetroot garlic, coconut and chutney. “Beetroot with salmon works because of the balance between the earthiness of the beetroot and the richness of the fish,” explains Rohit, whose reputation as a master of modern pan-Indian cuisine was cemented during his time at London’s legendary Gymkhana. For mains we tucked into mangalore fish with a delicious coconut and tamarind sauce and lamb barbat with burnt spices and garlic, all served with tadka dal and steamed rice.
Our desserts were as delicious and unique as they sounded – a sous-vide pineapple and coconut dish with jaggery and chutney, and a deconstructed orange carrot cake with heritage carrots and cashews. If you’re feeling more adventurous, opt for garlic almond cannoli with pistachio mawa and mixed berries. We also enjoyed a surprisingly light and fruity Thelema chardonnay from South Africa.
Signature offerings include robata-grilled wild tiger prawns with chickpea and coconut, balchao guinea fowl paired with smoked beetroot, and a slow-cooked lamb shank biryani. Other highlights are Amritsari kulche and choley, as well as a whole rotisserie masala chicken with burnt spices and bone marrow sauce, which Rohit describes as a “full-flavoured showstopper”.
Here, Punjab-born Rohit reveals what led him to become a chef and why pushing culinary boundaries are so important to him.
You’ve had huge success with your other two London restaurants. Why did you decide to launch Vatavaran now and how is it different from the others?
“Vatavaran is a project that has been in the making for a while, and the time felt right to introduce something truly unique to London’s fine dining scene. We wanted to take our guests on a new journey, inspired by the serene yet rugged landscapes of the Himalayas. While Kutir celebrates the wilderness, and Manthan focuses on coastal influences, Vatavaran is an entirely different experience – it’s about atmosphere, elevation, and the rare, indigenous ingredients that define Himalayan cuisine. Every detail, from the menu to the interiors, is curated to transport diners to this extraordinary region, while still integrating traditional dishes and ingredients from the whole country.”
How would you describe Vatavaran’s cuisine and influences?
“Vatavaran is deeply influenced by the diverse landscapes and ingredients of the Himalayas, blended with modern techniques and a pan-Indian approach. It takes inspiration from the high-altitude cooking traditions, combining rustic, bold flavours with refined culinary execution. We use ingredients such as Himalayan juniper berries, fiddlehead ferns and mountain garlic, which bring a unique depth to the flavours. While rooted in Indian heritage, the menu incorporates unexpected elements, resulting in a dining experience that is both familiar and innovative.”
Is the menu also inspired by your native Punjab?
“My Punjabi heritage is reflected through comforting, bold dishes that pay homage to my roots. For example, Amritsari kulche with choley is a nod to the street food culture of Punjab, while the slow-cooked lamb shank biryani carries the slow-simmering techniques that I grew up with.”
Has food – and the preparation of it – always been a big part of your life?
“Food has always been at the heart of my life. Growing up in Punjab, our meals were full of robust flavours and rich traditions. I remember my mother making sarson ka saag with makke ki roti in the winter, a dish that still brings me comfort today. Dal chawal with homemade pickle and papad was another staple that holds special memories. Cooking was never just about sustenance; it was about gathering, sharing and passing down traditions. That deep-rooted connection is what led me to become a chef.”
There are some unusual pairings such as garlic almond cannoli with pistachio mawa and mixed berries. Can you describe the creative process?
“We want to surprise and delight our guests but always in a way that honours the essence of Indian cuisine. The creative process starts with an exploration of local and seasonal ingredients and finding ways to integrate them with traditional Indian techniques. The garlic almond cannoli is a play on textures and flavours, bringing together sweet, savoury and nutty elements in an unexpected way. It’s about pushing boundaries while maintaining harmony on the plate.”
What is your own go-to dish on the menu?
“My go-to dish would have to be the slow-cooked lamb shank biryani – it embodies everything I love about Indian cuisine: slow cooking, rich spices and deep flavour. As for signature dishes, the robata-grilled wild tiger prawns, imli chicken and desserts like the sous-vide pineapple and coconut with jaggery chutney have really resonated with guests.”
You won a Michelin star for Jamavar in Mayfair in record time – just ten months after it opened. What did that award mean to you?
“Winning a Michelin star was never the primary goal – I was just doing what I love, cooking from the heart. But of course, it was an incredible honour and a proud moment. More than anything, it reinforced the importance of putting Indian cuisine on the global fine dining map. It also showed that Indian chefs could stand alongside the best in the world and innovate while staying true to our roots.”
How would you describe the current dining scene in London?
“London’s dining scene is at its most exciting. Luxury dining is evolving and the love for Indian cuisine continues to grow and diversify. Diners are more discerning than ever, looking for authentic yet innovative experiences. It’s a great time to be a chef here, as people are willing to explore bold flavours and unique concepts.